My Three 'R's of Sustainable Fashion

Everybody knows the 3 R's, right? Reduce, Reuse, Recycle. For decades, this mantra has been engraved in our collective mind, from when we're first taught as schoolchildren, to the dependable reminders every Earth Day thereafter. 

I love the 3 R's. It's a memorable phrase that not only describes a simplified waste management hierarchy, but also captures the order of desirability. (Reducing waste is the most desirable action, whereas recycling should only be a last resort. Reusing is sort of in between, extending the life cycle of the item.)

As I've begun to take an interest in eco-conscious fashion, an idea has been stewing in the depths of my brain for a hierarchy of sustainable fashion, and I wanted to draw attention to some overlooked alternatives to buying from big-box retailers. 

Below is my hierarchy of actions for sustainable fashion, ranked from best to worst. If you disagree, let me know! We can hash it out in the comments.

1. Refuse.

Okay, maybe this is a cheat answer. But the most planet-friendly wardrobe is the one you already have. As adults (presuming that you, dear reader, are an adult) who aren't growing anymore, it's not often that we need new articles of clothing. So check that impulse to buy whenever there is a sale. But, for those unavoidable situations where a need for clothing arises, read on for some more options.

2. Repair or Alter

Extending the life of clothing you already have is a great step toward an eco-friendly wardrobe. And you don't have to be a whiz with a sewing machine to do it. Re-attaching buttons, darning socks, and applying patches are all achievable for anyone with a needle and thread. 

For those items that aren't quite right (you know, the sweater you bought at 75% off even though it's two sizes too big?), consider altering the garment, before resorting to donation. Pants can have the waist and legs adjusted, tops can become cropped, and unwieldy maxi dresses can be hemmed to above the knee. If you're not confident enough in your sewing skills to take the plunge yourself, your local tailor stands at your service. Altering clothing can give you the benefits of a custom-fitting piece, keeping a beloved item in your wardrobe through the fluctuations of your body, and supporting local business!

3. Buy used

Most people I know are in the habit of donating their clothing when it's no longer wanted. Value Village states that, of all jurisdictions where they operate, Ontario has the highest annual tonnage of donated clothing, by a large margin! However, far fewer people shop at second-hand stores than donate to them, and this CBC article claims that only about 25% of donated clothes end up being sold in the communities where they were donated. The rest are either sold abroad, used as rags, ground up and repurposed, or tossed in a landfill. There are a lot of great advantages to buying used clothing:

• It's cheaper! You can get gently-used clothing from well-known brands, or vintage made-in-Canada items for a lower cost. 
• There's more variety in sizes and styles. For example: I hate pants shopping. Most stores are full of pants that follow the same trends with much the same fit. I usually end up going to several different stores before finding a pair that suit me. At a second-hand store, I can find the section of pants in my size, stocked with different brands, styles, and fits. This means I can try many options at once, where I'd otherwise have to traipse around to different stores to compare the styles. You're also likely to find older styles, which is great if you're not wild about current trends (looking at you, cropped pants...)
• No new material is needed for you to get a "new" garment.

However, shopping second-hand is not a viable (or attractive) option for everyone, and I recognize the advantages I have as a straight-sized person living in a huge urban centre. If picking through the racks at Value Village is not your thing, there are still sustainable options for you!

4. Make your own, or pay someone to do it for you

Making your own clothes is an investment... of time, money, and energy. In my previous blog post, I discussed some of the great reasons to learn to sew garments. In short:

• Full control over fabric choice, which means you can choose sustainably sourced materials.
• No exploitative labour practices! You know exactly who made your clothes and how much they were compensated.
• Access to customized fit. You have total control over how the garment fits, and you know how it was made, so you can modify it if necessary.

Because of the time investment and the level of control you have over a self-made garment, I personally believe you're likely to care for it lovingly, to wear it as long as possible, and to repair it when necessary. But because of the high overhead in skill and cost, and the fact that new fabric is typically used, this doesn't top my list of sustainable fashion practices. However, if you're planning to sew with thrifted fabric, this becomes a near-perfect choice, from an environmental perspective!

5. Buy from sustainable brands

If making isn't your thing, you live in a remote area with no second-hand stores and you need a new item of clothing, there are still eco-friendly options for you! There are too many brands to even begin to name all of them, so I'll share some of the key things I look for when assessing a potential clothing purchase.

• Certified B-Corporation status. B-Corporations are legally held to high standards of environmental and social sustainability. While ethical labour practices are not a prerequisite for reducing environmental impact, they must be employed to reduce the overall harm of the fashion industry.
• Made in Canada. This is a sign that a company does not use exploitative labour, and means that the carbon footprint of the item is likely to be less than items made overseas, as it has travelled a shorter distance. 
• Repair and recycling programs. Some brands offer these, and it's a good indicator that their products are designed for many years of wear! 
• Multipurpose clothing. If an item can be converted, is reversible, or can otherwise be worn in many ways through the seasons, then I see this as evidence that one item could prevent me from "needing" to buy several other pieces.

If you want some specific brand recommendations, let me know!

*A word of caution about "lifetime guarantees". This doesn't mean the item will never rip or break, and doesn't even necessarily mean it's high-quality. It means that the company is comfortable enough with its profit margins to replace damaged items. Buyer beware.

So, this is my version of the 3 R's for fashion. Yes, I know I've outlined five options, and most of them don't start with 'R'... Maybe this is more like BEDMAS for clothes?  

I'm sure as I advance in life and my quest for sustainability, my preferences for all of these options will wax and wane. Hopefully others will find in this post some valuable additions to their fashion toolboxes!